It is an immersive gastronomic experience unlike any other. It is deliciously flavoursome, while very showy and a whole heap of fun. Everything from the Four Seasons’ 10-course degustation kosher menu with accompanying beverages to the entertainment and music is the brainchild of master chef Rony Parienty.
He was born in France and raised in Israel, before making his way to Melbourne in 2017. Rony worked at Vue de monde after extensive experience in kitchens in France, Switzerland, Italy and Spain. He was head chef at No35 Restaurant at Sofitel Melbourne on Collins, opened Shelanous in Port Melbourne and then, last November, Shelly in Caulfield.
In short, he has let his imagination go wild to create loving memories and connection. He didn’t just want to be stuck in a kitchen, out of sight. He longed to be a true showman and he has succeeded in spades. When you consider the three-hour Four Seasons’ showcase, forget the conventional ways to serve food. Think dress ups, mood lighting and great song, at one point even allowing patrons to play with what they eat, sans cutlery. I am loathe to give away everything for fear of lessening the adventure that confronts you when you set foot inside Shelly, but I intend to give you several morsels.
Up to 30 patrons are seated at a long table (hidden by secret bookshelves, a la Harry Potter), but not before they are greeted at the door with a popcorn cocktail. I mean a sweet drink with straw housed in a popcorn box surrounded by the salty treat: a very tasty and refreshing start to the evening. Then it is to the bar where two appetisers begin the wholesome food journey. Next, we are summoned to step behind the wonder wall of books.
To great fanfare, including the sound of a voiceover artist and the music of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, comes a surprise. A fully laid out table, complete with representations of shells, coral, rope, seahorses and whales, appears from above. We are in summer, so we are not far from the wonders of the ocean, which adorn our plates in bite size pieces, complete with a Piña colada. There is even a mouth-watering, corkscrew shaped, apple tasting icy pole.
When the heat dissipates, it is autumn. Browning leaves, the forest, free-flowing rivers and crackling log fires beckon. In Rony’s establishment, it is a sensory experience, so headphones and eye masks are props. With it came my favourite dish of the many served – the best tortellini, replete with truffles, I have ever tasted … by a country mile. Playing in the background is Prince’s Purple Rain.
During a break, we are asked to leave the dining room and reassemble at the bar. But the show continues with shots served, as dry ice creates a low-lying fog effect. The waiters don evocative costumes and YMCA blares out over the speakers. Thereafter, things get particularly interesting when each of us is asked to put on a single black rubber glove and we are ushered back to the table. What follows is a true revelation in the way hot and cold food is served. But to find out more, you simply have to experience Shelly for yourself. It is nothing short of mind blowing.
Spring requires a reset and the most moreish barramundi, crispy on top and succulent on the inside, on a pumpkin base. It is a season of fresh vegetables. Hotel California and Michael’s Jackson’s Man in the Mirror liven things up. And then the piece de resistance. Cometh winter and a desert served on a naked table drizzled with melted chocolate, hazelnut, icing sugar and more. Also on the polished surface sits a series of tiny easels, one in front of each guest. The canvas is a small square of pavlova, which we are asked to paint. Beside it, scrumptious rich, gooey chocolate and caramel tortes. But wait, the show hasn’t yet reached its zenith. That involves fire and ice.
Rony set out to create happiness and love in a world that suffers from intolerance. Judging by the incredulous faces and satiated stomachs I witnessed, he and his team have nailed it and how! Shelly is open five days a week (not Friday and Saturday) offering a six-course Trust Rony menu (which means he chooses and you trust he will do the right thing). On three of those five days, you can also experience what my wife and I did, namely the extra special 10-course seasons’ feed and show. I assure you that you will not be disappointed. More than that, it is something that promises to stay with you for the rest of your life. For bookings, go to https://www.shellyrestaurant.com.au
Alex First
Alex First is the editor of The Blurb. Alex is a Melbourne based journalist and communications specialist. He also contributes to The Blurb on film and theatre.