Women He's Undressed – movie review

Long before Catherine Martin was stealing all the plaudits in Hollywood, another Australian, Orry-Kelly (31st December 1897 – 27th February 1964), had already blazed that trail.  This is his story, told through interviews and commentary from an actor who plays Orry, as directed by Gillian Armstrong.  During the boom years of Hollywood, Orry was costume designer on no less than 282 motion pictures.  He created for the stars like Marilyn Monroe, Bette Davis, Humphrey Bogart, Rosalind Russell, Errol Flynn and many more of the immortals. His films included Some Like It Hot, Casablanca, An American in Paris and Now, Voyager.

Orry was as big a legend behind the scenes as the on-screen legends he adoringly dressed. He was talented, daring, brash, bold and uncompromising, the toast of Hollywood, yet a thorn in the side of many a studio head.  Orry survived partially protected by his friendship with Ann Warner (the wife of Warner Bros. Pictures kingpin Jack) and gossip columnist Hedda Hopper, although ultimately it came down to his extraordinary talent. He was the first Australian to win three Academy Awards. But just who was Orry-Kelly and how could he be so unknown in his homeland?

Born Orry George Kelly, he set sail from Sydney at age 24 bound for New York, landing there poor and friendless. Director Armstrong reunites with her Unfolding Florence co-conspirator, writer Katherine Thompson, in crafting a revealing behind the scenes look at the life and times of Orry-Kelly. The engaging doco features interviews with fashion icons Jane Fonda, Angela Lansbury and June Dally-Watkins. Armstrong has spoken with costume designers Catherine Martin, Ann Roth, Kym Barrett, Michael Wilkinson and Deborah Nadoolman Landis, along with Hollywood identities and historians. She also gained insights from Barbara Warner Howard (daughter of Ann and Jack Warner).

The movie has taken as its key visual motif a photograph of George Orry Kelly as a young boy in a sailor suit, snapped by a small wooden boat. The filmmakers have transposed that and used it as a constant theme. Rowing and water are symbolic of the tenacity, doggedness and endeavour that Orry displays. They also lend weight to the expression that the best characters rock the boat.

While the film was a revelation for me, Orry’s life clearly was to Gillian Armstrong too. When producer Damien Parer approached her with a documentary proposal, Armstrong agreed Orry-Kelly’s story was inspiring, but she hadn’t heard about him either. Part of the joy of the film was piecing it all together. It took many months of research that included almost the entire history of movies, from the beginning of sound and the development of colour through to Wide Screen and Technicolour.

Although I would have liked to have seen and heard more about the down times and Orry’s darker side, I recognise this was intended as recognition of an innovator. I could have done with fewer references, if any, to the man in the boat constantly on the move and, probably, to mum hanging out the washing and being so proud of her son. But then these are petty grievances, which others may not share.

Overwhelmingly, this is a splendid insight into a man of great talent, whom Gillian Armstrong has taken delight in fleshing out. Rated PG, Women He’s Undressed scores a 7½ out of 10.

Director: Gillian Armstrong
Release Date: 16 July 2015
Rating: PG

Alex First